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INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN THE INTERZONE

BUTTERFLY DREAMS v1.1a

I awoke around 6:00 in the morning to prepare for the ceremony. It was a beautiful summer day in the Southern Lacandon and the sun was shinning.

Enriques arrived around 6:30 carrying a bucket. The bucket would be used to carry the necessary elements for the ceremony that we would find in the jungle.

We walked into the jungle in search of a Quasin tree, which we had scouted the day before. This particular tree was covered with these giant caterpillars called "nok ekavor". The caterpillars live on the underside of tree branches protecting themselves from birds. They cluster together and create a unique site to behold.

Enrique told me to start collecting caterpillars so I pulled around thirty of them off the tree and placed them in the bucket. Next we walked through the jungle to an open field that was populated with these large beautiful yellow flowers. We picked a number of them and placed them in the bucket.

Next we proceeded to an enchanting waterfall where I was instructed to disrobe and bath in the falling water. The water was warm and exhilarating to say the least. After my cleansing I sat next to the bucket while Enrique said a prayer. I was then required to take an oath.

That done we were now prepared to visit Kayum, an elder of the Southern Lacandon.

Kayum is a remarkable man. He has spent his entire life in the Lacandon Jungle. He is in fact charmed as all elders are. You see the Lacandon is such a dangerous place to live that any person who can reach an old age must be special. Not only that but Kayum is a link between the old-ways and today's modern cultures emanating all over Mexico even the Lacandon Jungle.

Kayum is a storehouse of Maya knowledge, a walking monument.

We arrived to Kayum's cabana deep in the jungle and were greeted by his wonderful wife Carmela. She was busy sweeping the floor and getting the house in order.

Kayum was busy squiring about. He reminded me of a wizard. Partly because he was old but mostly because he was very stern and wise looking.

Kayum spoke to Enrique who then picked up the bucket and told me to follow him. We walked to a stream, which was located right next to Kyum's cabana. The Lacandon build their homesteads next to running streams.

Once there Kyum picked a caterpillar from the bucket. I was instructed to observe closely. Kayum then tore the head of the caterpillar off then squeezed all the insides out. Then he tore off the abdomen and cleaned the carcass in the water. He then put the remains on a log. Enrique told me to help him then walked away.

So I picked up a caterpillar which was wiggling about trying to escape. I reluctantly tore off his head then ran my fingers down the length of its body squeezing all the innards out. Then I tore off the abdomen and cleaned it. I gave it to Kayum who inspected it and then nodded that I had done it correctly. There we stood, in the water-cleaning caterpillars for about an hour. During this time Kayum would point to something and tell me the word for the thing in Lacandon. He was a very good teacher.

After we had cleaned the caterpillars, Carmela took out a frying pan and placed the caterpillar carcasses in the frying pan over a fire. Everybody took turns monitoring the cooking, stirring the caterpillars and flipping them over so they did not burn.

Carmela went out into the jungle and collected some peppers and leaves which were also to be used. She had already made the tortillas.

After it was determined that the caterpillars were cooked it was time to eat them. Enrique, who likes to cook, took a tortilla and added some kind of chilly sauce then scooped a hardy helping of caterpillar into my tortilla. He folded it over and put it on a plate for me. Carmela had lemon tee brewing and she pored me a cup to help wash down the caterpillars.

I sat down and looked at my caterpillar tortilla. I think I should mention I am a very fussy eater. You can't imagine my trepidation as a spied my tortilla. I had never knowingly eaten an insect before. The room was quiet except for the giggles of my hosts who new what was going through my mind. So I picked it up and took a big bite. It didn't taste that bad. In fact I think I could actually grow to enjoy eating caterpillars. However I could not eat my entire tortilla. This was acceptable, as I had eaten most of it.

The lemon tea tasted great. There is a plant that the Lacandon have growing around them that they pick and place in boiling water for a tea.

After this I needed to smoke a joint so I took out my pipe and smoked a few bowls. Kayum was busy preparing for the main ceremony.

After a while Kayum appeared and motioned that we were ready to proceed. I exited Kayum's cabana and was instructed to sit on a log in the bodega. In front of me were two small logs. Each had a Lacandon God-Pot resting on it. To my right on the ground was a large hollow gourd with a little clay figure in it.

Kayum began by lighting copal incense and passing it around the area fanning the incense pot with a large leaf. The area was soon engulfed with the sent of copal which is very pleasant.

Once the area was purified with copal I was instructed that the ceremony was to begin.

Kayum began chanting in traditional Lacandon, first to the left of me then behind me then to the right of me. He sang and chanted. I sat motionless looking at the God-Pots and the little clay figure besides me. Kayum's chants soon took on mesmerizing effect. I began to examine the intricacies of the God Pots. The little clay figure also had a puzzling nature to it and as I looked closer and closer at the figure while the copal drifted up to my head. Kayum's words crackled forth and snapped me out of my dream-state.

Kayum chanted and sang for at least a 20 minutes.

Then he picked up the gourd with the clay figure and I was instructed to hold it. He continued his chanting, I looked at the little figure. I could see all the details of its creation. Why was it in the gourd I thought? Why did I have to hold it? Kayum then started rubbing my back with the leaf.

Kayum rubbed the leaf on my head and shoulders then down my left arm. He rubbed my chest then my leg. I sat holding the little figure in the gourd, dizzy now from the burning copal. Kayum moved over to my right side and began rubbing the right side of my body with the leaf while he sang his song.

Once this was complete the ceremony was officially over.

Kayum inspected the God Pots and incense burner then spoke to Enrique in Spanish. It was something regarding the ceremony.

 
NOTES: I made inquiries regarding each aspect of this ceremony. I have also conducted research to better understand the significance of each step of the ceremony. I have reframed from writing the details in fear that I have misinterpreted something. I hope in future revisions of this text to explain fully what actually was going on here. It is complicated.

 
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