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INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN THE INTERZONETHE PERIWINKLE TEA CLUB v1.1aIt was late September when we traveled to Chiapas for the Mushroom Ceremony. The summer crowds were gone and so was the hot summer heat. Our destination to begin the ceremony was Palenque where we had prearranged to meet the shaman Enrique. Palenque's streams were swollen from the summer rains and the jungle was green with new life. Accompanying me on this expedition was my girlfriend Kate, and our comrade Duane. The ceremony began around dusk. We were at a remote location at the edge of the jungle with no electricity. It was a relatively new building that was left unfinished. The building had a few rooms connected to a large room with two doors. We were alone save for a family of Mayan farmers living nearby. Earlier that day we met for a meeting to discuss the ceremony. Enrique asked us to first walk out into the jungle and select a certain kind of flower. He instructed us to find a stream and select a rock from a stream and to carry that rock with us all day. We were to keep the flower and rock together. We each had small medicine bags that we kept them in. Sitting around a table we all displayed our individual rocks and flowers. Darkness fell and the only light visible beyond the moon and stars was the candle we had lit. The mood of the gathering was tense. Enrique was busy doing something in his room in the small building not far from where we were sitting. We were silent. The only noises were the sounds of Howler Monkeys emanating out of the jungle. A door opened and Enrique emerged. He asked Kate to go into the room with him. Kate removed her shoes and entered the room. The door was closed and some time passed. Duane and I sat motionless. After Kate had gone through with the initial part of the ceremony it was decided that she should be taken back to camp because the next part of the ceremony was too dangerous. Duane walked Kate back to camp, I sat alone and Enrique prepared for Duane and I. Duane returned shortly and was called to Enrique's room. After a while he too exited, silent, deep in thought. It was now my turn. I walked through the pitch-black main room towards the light emanating out from under the door. I removed my shoes and entered Enrique's room and closed the door. The room was lit by a number of red and white candles strategically placed in various locations. On the floor in an elaborate highly detailed configuration were a large number of objects. These included seashells polished and not polished rocks, amber, crystals, plants, pictures, various religious objects, numerous other things and a large number of big red topped mushrooms. The ceremony was started by the drinking of a large glass of tequila. Enrique then blew copal incense all over me while waving a large feather and chanting a prayer. I was seated in the lotus position in front of the elaborate display. Enrique took tequila in his mouth and blew it all over me. He circled me repeatedly blowing tequila until I was fully covered with a coating of tequila and incense. I was asked to repeat certain things. Enrique, deep in concentration sang some prayers and made numerous dramatic gestures as he circled me and waved his feather about. I was then asked what I was seeking from the mushroom. Insights and understanding regarding the Mayan concept of time and measurement I proclaimed. I was then instructed to write my wish in a book he had. This done it was now time to see if we were worthy of the task at hand. I exited Enrique's room, put my shoes back on and walked over to Duane who was sitting alone under the stars. A few moments later Enrique appeared and beckoned us to follow him. He walked silently down a road for a few hundred yards then into the jungle. It was pitch-black dark and all we had was one little pen flashlight, which Enrique carried. We were led to a small stream, which we proceeded to follow up the side of a mountain. We were in bare feet and Duane and I could see nothing. This was extremely dangerous, as we could not see what we were walking on, stepping on or grabbing, whenever we fell. Lucky for us the majority of rocks were smooth surfaced however there were still sharp edges and lots of fallen trees. Keeping our eyes open for a jaguar or a poisonous snake was also at the front of our minds. There is also a certain plant that if you simply touch it can make you instantly sick, not to mention all the thorn trees, scorpions, and black widows. We climbed and climbed and climbed. I prayed that Duane or I would not fall and break an ankle or smash a kneecap. We slipped and fell, tripped, and more or less grappled with the jungle as we made our way up the mountain in the darkness. Finally we came to a cave with a waterfall. This was our destination. Enrique lit some candles and instructed us to remove our clothing. Naked we stood there watching Enrique as he stood underneath the waterfall. He then sat at the mouth of the cave, said a prayer then went inside. A few moments later he returned. We were then each to first cleanse ourselves under the waterfall then enter the cave to make an offering to the jaguar. Our offering was to be our rock and flower we had been carrying with us that day. Duane went first, bathed underneath the sacred waterfall then entered the cave to make his offering. I followed suit. The water was warm and refreshing. The candles lit up the colors of the jungle. The crashing of the waterfall and the energy that flows with the water mesmerizes you. After the water I entered the cave and crawled in the rich mud that lined the floor. It was hard to see anything but I managed to climb into the cave about five feet deep before I stopped and opened my medicine bag. I pulled out my rock and flower and threw it into the cave. I crawled back out and bathed under the water one final time. We put our clothing back on and proceeded back down the mountain. Going down the mountain was no easier than going up. We stumbled and grappled with the vines and fallen trees. We slipped on things we couldn't see and fell into the water. When we reached the bottom Duane and I stepped on a fire-ant mound and got bitten all over our feet. We speculated if this was some kind of omen until Enrique assured us that we just stepped on fire ants. We proceeded back to Enrique's camp and again took our places at the table. Enrique went to his room to prepare for the next part of the ceremony. First Duane was called in, then I. Since we had managed to climb to the cave and make our offerings to the jaguar we were now eligible to proceed with the ceremony. Kate was instructed to throw her rock and flower in a stream the next day. I took off my shoes and entered Enrique's room. I again sat before the elaborate configuration. I was then bathed in copal while Enrique chanted prayers. I too was asked to say some prayers, which I spoke. Then I was instructed to select a mushroom from the mushrooms that were laid out in the configuration on the floor. I selected an interesting red topped mushroom, which Enrique picked up and placed in a wooden bowl for me. I was then instructed to go back to our camp, eat the mushroom and go to bed. We were, under no circumstances to leave our campsite and wander into the jungle. We were also to report back the next morning at 06:00 sharp. Enrique selected a mushroom for Kate and placed it in my bowel. So Duane and I went back to our camp. I went over to Duane's cabana and sat with him for a little while. We ate our mushrooms and waited. After a little while we started to feel something but it was not much. In fact I would say that we were hardly feeling anything. After about an hour we still felt almost next to nothing so I decided to retire for the night and went to the cabana Kate and I were sleeping in. Kate was lying in bed waiting for me. I told her about the mountain adventure while she ate her mushroom. We talked for an hour or so then decided to go to sleep. I still had not felt anything. The lights were still on and I was lying on the bed. I closed my eyes and all of a sudden a magical kaleidoscope of colors and images flashed in my head. It was amazing! I opened my eyes and it was gone. I closed my eyes and Fantasia in 3D appeared in theatre in the round. I opened my eyes and it was gone. Not only that but I didn't feel a thing. I turned to Kate and exclaimed; "do you see this!" "This is unbelievable" was her reply. This was truly one of the most remarkable experiences of my life. I had eaten magic mushrooms many times before, but never for any reason but to party. This was different. The whole experience was so controllable and mellow. When you closed your eyes your head filled up with the most magical visions that you can possibly imagine. One after the next, melting into each other, seamlessly shaping a mirage of beauty and wonder. Then when you opened your eyes it stopped. Not only that but you were in full control of your faculties, calm, collective and in full control. You only had to open your eyes to make it stop. Kate loved it and this was her first time doing any kind of mushroom. What made this even more unique was that we were both having the same experience with different visions. We lay in bed for a while opening and closing our eyes. Talking about the experience. After a while though we just drifted off into space, riding on a glistening wave of one of our visions. The alarm went off at 5:30. Climbing out from under the covers I noticed that there was not a single mark on me save the fire ant bites. Not a cut or even a small scratch from the previous nights mountain climbing expedition. This confirmed by Kate, we proceeded to dress and get Duane for our early morning rendezvous with Enrique. There were no after effects from the mushrooms that we could detect. No hang over or stomach cramps. In fact we felt great. We arrived at Enrique 's place at 6:00 sharp. He was busy making mushroom tea. This consisted of a couple ounces of fresh mushrooms and a little sugar boiled in water for a short time. He handed us each a large mushroom in a bowl of honey. We ate the mushrooms along with the honey and smoked some ganja. The tea was ready so we each had a cup of tea. We then ate another mushroom. It was time now to go. Enrique took us to a place in the Chiapas lowlands near the edge of the jungle where three streams met and formed a delta in the middle. We were instructed to cross the stream and stay on the delta. Under no circumstances were we to leave that delta. He would return later for us. That said he left. The delta was not big, maybe 30 yards across. It did not take long to investigate it. This done we sat on a log and waited for the mushrooms to kick in. It was beautiful sitting under giant trees with the water running around us. It was so mellow in fact we could barely stay awake. The first sign that the mushrooms are activating is acute drowsiness. Time passed and the mushrooms started to overpower us. They were activating now and coming on in full force. Around this time Enrique appeared. He called for us to leave and we returned to his camp. There we sat and smoked some ganja and ate some more mushrooms. We then walked out to the road and waited for a collectivo, which did not take long. Enrique did not say where we were going. A short trip and we found ourselves at the bottom of a mountain standing on the road while Enrique looked along the roadside for something. He was looking for a marker and once he found it he disappeared into the jungle, we followed. We started to climb up another mountain stream but unlike last night's climb, we could see. The climb during the day is not that difficult and the scenery is breathtaking. In some spots there are miniature waterfall after waterfall. With the colorful assorted vegetation and numerous birds chirping and monkeys howling. After an exhilarating trek we came to the mouth of a large cave with a waterfall on top of it. This was a sacred place known only to a few. Enrique explained that this cave had been used well back into antiquity however its use was restricted to a particular class of Mayan society, that being the priest and nobility sect. We removed our clothing and entered the cave, one by one. The cave was filled with terracotta clay! Enrique instructed us to bathe in the clay and cover every square inch of our bodies with the clay. We did so then just sat back and relaxed while the water fell over the opening of the cave. The clay had a soothing appeal to it. It was extremely relaxing. The mushrooms had kicked in big-time and we were flying. The combination of the warm soothing clay, the mushrooms, the waterfall, the beautiful summer day and the fact that we were sitting there naked, covered in mud, in a cave, with a waterfall, on a mountain in the Chiapas jungle was exhilarating to say the least! This was our day of cleansing for the ceremony and I felt quite cleansed after leaving the cave and washing under the waterfall. The sparkling water crashed down carrying the energies from the mountain through us connecting us to Mother Earth. We traveled down the mountain and returned to our camp to relax and meditate. The next day we would be going to the magical Palenque ruins. We awoke early the next day and went to Enrique's place. He greeted us with his usual candor and we sat down to discuss our day's mission. Today we were going to go to Palenque ruins. But first we would drink some mushroom tea and eat some mushrooms. This would prepare us for our meditation with the site. Enrique would not accompany us on this leg of our mission. Instead he bid us farewell as we went on our way. Kate, Duane and I proceeded to Palenque. Once there we divided up and Kate and I went together and Duane went out alone. We explored the ruins, which are just enchanting and found the highest location where one can climb up and sit which is the Temple of the Cross. We had a big mushroom with us so we ate it and climbed up. Once we were up there we did not want to come down. Duane saw us way up there and he soon joined us. There we sat like monkeys for hours. We never wanted to leave that spot. New people kept arriving to sit up there with us and take on the magnificent view. We smoked bowl after bowl of ganja and just soaked in the vibe of the area. It was getting late and we wanted to swim under the waterfalls at the ruin's exit, so we left. After our swim we decided that we should get some food having eaten nothing but mushrooms for three days so we went into Palenque town for food. We had a feast and retired for the evening. The next day we were leaving for magnificent waterfalls of Agua Azule. Two girls from Europe, a girl from Israel, and our driver, a guy who lived around the area joined us on our trip. The girls wanted to see the waterfalls so it was decided they might as well come with us. After a short stop and swim at Micheha falls we arrived at Agua Azul mid-day. We found a quiet spot and Enrique pulled out a large container of what is called Palenque Marmalade. It was a couple of pounds of mushrooms soaking in honey. The honey had already started to turn black which is what happens after it soaks up the mushrooms. He filled a cup full of the marmalade and I ate it. So did Kate. Our instructions were to not go too close to the water and to not leave the area and go walking in the jungle but more specifically to stay away from the water. The object here being that the influence and power from the waterfalls is what we wished to experience, however the influence is so powerful that it apparently can pull you in even when you are on land. The Palenque Marmalade kicked in fast and was extremely strong. Everyday's mushroom experience was different but nothing had ever been as powerful as this, nothing ever in my entire life. By nightfall I had consumed 3 full cups of marmalade which was a couple ounces of strong mushrooms. It was a full moon and there were many stars glistening in the night sky. I had reached the InterZone. Kate and I sat near the waterfalls and talked under the moon. There was no point to reasoning any of this. Sitting next to the thunderous crashing of the waterfalls under the twinkling stars was simply too beautiful an experience to spoil with reason. It was getting late so we decided to go to bed. Duane had left with the girls to go back to Playa del Carmen. He had just returned from a trip to Egypt and was unprepared for this. We were three now. The next day we were off to Tonina. After experiencing what we had over the last few days we wondered what could we do now that can possibly compare to anything we have done in the last few days? But Mexico is the land of surprises and we were yet to fly deeper into the InterZone. Our bus pulled into Ocasingo around noon. We hopped in a taxi, which took us through town and up the countryside to Tonina. Tonina is a special Maya ruin site as it was home to a society of astronomers. This becomes apparent when you realize you are high up in the clouds. We made camp close to the ruins at a little farmhouse. The owner, a lovely lady let us have her house for the night. We did not even ask her. She just asked us if we would like to be her guest. We were of course delighted. You see, it is a common belief that it is not advisable to remain on a ruin site at night and this is to be avoided under all circumstances. This women however lived there, night and day, often alone. The thought of sleeping right in front of Tonina ruins was enchanting and we were all quite excited. There was still a full moon and by chance it was Enrique's birthday. So we had a birthday celebration. We then spoke about the significance of Tonina in the Maya world. We then each ate a cup of marmalade. It was around dinnertime. We had not eaten anything but marmalade since our feast in Palenque but none of us were hungry. We each ate another cup of marmalade and I decided to go for a walk. I found a high hill and climbed to the top. The overlooking scenery was breathtaking. You are at a high elevation and the clouds are below you in the distance with other colorful peaks. The effect from the mushrooms was quite different today. Much more sedate. I thought maybe I should eat more so I ate another cup, a little later I decided to eat some more. At this point we had lost all track of time. The mushrooms would make you fall asleep but when you awoke you would have no idea how long you were out for. The full moon was the brightest I have ever seen it in my life and everything was lit up with a kind of ethereal glow. It was all very surreal. You could see the high peaks of the old ruins jutting out into the sky. There were no city lights to mask the shimmering of the multitude of stars visible at this location. It was simply spectacular. We stayed up most of the night, walking around the farm, looking at the stars. We tried to sleep every so often but that usually proved fruitless. By 5:30 we were wide-awake waiting for the rest of the world to wake up. We had a little marmalade left so we decided to eat what remained which was almost a cup each. I smoked a couple of bowls of ganja then we decided it was time to visit the ruins. The sun was just coming up and the clouds and mist covered everything. As we climbed the steps to Tonina's highest temple peak we climbed through clouds. It was all so magical. We stopped along the climb to take measurements and view the various structures that make up this unique complex built on the side of a mountain. Reaching the summit we sat to admire the magnificent view. Hawks were flying around in circles on the wind drafts. A sweet breeze filtered through our hair. We were at the top of the world. Kate climbed down but I couldn't bring myself to leave. I took out my pipe and started smoking bowls of ganja to heighten the experience. We had been consuming mushrooms around the clock now for six solid days. There I was alone high atop Tonina ruins gazing out across the beautiful landscape, the clouds below me. After a while I reluctantly decided it was time to climb down and return to the farmhouse. This was the end of the mushroom ceremony. It was time now to leave Chiapas for Laguna Bakalar in Quintana Roo. We packed our belongings and cleaned up the farmhouse. Leaving this marvel of astronomical mysteries. NOTES: Kate had experienced heightened eyesight. Kate has weak eyes and requires glasses. However without glasses Kate was able to see grains of sand on the ground clearly. I did not experience this. Also both of us had experienced acute memory flashbacks. These would occur out of nowhere and were extremely vivid. Long forgotten childhood experience would pop into our heads. This occurred repeatedly. Another interesting observation is that neither of us had a single scratch, cut or bruise on us. We in fact examined each other's bodies to confirm. This was remarkable considering we had spent the last six days climbing through dense jungle, through streams and up and down ancient ruins. |
| Incidents of Travel in the InterZone |
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| Archaeological Sites | Natural Beauties | Cities and Villages | |
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| Traveling to the Yuctan Peninsula visit |
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