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Once upon a time there was a little newsboy who was very, very poor and he only sold old newspapers because he didn't have enough money for new ones. People didn't by his newspapers because they were all so out of date, and they wanted new newspapers. So the little newsboy never sold any, and every day he accumulated more and more old newspapers. What the little newsboy did was put up a paper recycling plant, and he became a millionaire, bought out all the newspaper businesses and the news agencies, prohibited publishing current news, and thus obliged people to read only news of the past. In the papers on sale today, for example, you'd read that the Zapatistas are about to arrive in Mexico City and that they'll meet with the Villistas there. You can't quite make out the date, but it seems to either 1914 or 1997.

DESTINATIONS

NORTH

Agua Azul, Agua Clar and Misol-ha

Three short detours off the highway 190 between Ocosingo-Palenque lead to beautiful water attractions: the spectacular cascades of Agua Azul, the turquoise Rio Shumulha at Atua Clara and the mystical waterfall of Misol-Ha.

There is also a lesser known set of cascades located just outside of Palenque on the Nututun river. Unfortunately visitors have been leaving so much garbage that the place is now a polluted mess. It is also an extreamly hot spot for bandits.

Agua Azul

The turnoff for the superb waterfalls of Agua Azul is about halfway between Ocotsingo and Palenque. Scores of dazzling white waterfalls thunder into turquoise pools surrounded by jungle.

Aproximately halfways between Palenque and Ocosingo is Agua Azule. You arrive via winding mountain roads to a parking lot next to a river. There are a number of resturents a few hotels and stores. The falls rise up the mountain in levels and you ascend level after level wondering how high this waterfall goes.

If you visit Agua Azule during the rainy season there is more water but the water is not blue. If you visit in April or May the water is usually blue. You can swim here as well but after you see all the crosses and death markers you will probably think twice.

The food and service is good here. The cabanas are grotty and bathrooms filthy. But the place is relitively inexpensive for a day-nights stay. You can camp there as well next to the falls.

Agua Clar

In between Palenque and Agua Azule is Agua Clar. Not as spectacular as either Agua Azule or Misol-Ha but a fun place to go swimming. It is located approximately 8km north of the Agua Azul turnoff.

Here the beautiful Rio Shumulha flows which is open for swimming or kayaking. There is a resturent here and a small hotel. It is a nice quiet place to spend the night.

Misol-Ha

Around 20km from Palenque is Misol-Ha, a high waterfall flanked by smaller cascades. Due to the amount of precipitation the vegatation is lush and tropical. You can swim in the pool, there is a rope but the current is treacherous. Behind the main waterfall is a walkway so you can walk behind the water and watch it fall. You can also climb up into a cave that is next to the main waterfall but this is extreamly dangerous. Take a flashlight with you if you do this to explore the cave.

The waterfall is 1.5 km off highway 199 and there are signs.

There is a resturent here and real nice cabanas, some with kitchens.


EAST

Laguna Miramar

Southeast of the city of Ocosingo is the Lacandon Jungle. This jungle contains over 4000 plant species, 345 documentated birds, 114 mamals and an unkown number of insects, many waiting to be discovered.

Within this dense forest exist Laguna Miramar, the largest lake in the Lacandon Jungle. This beautiful pristine lake resides inside the official Montes Azules biosphere reserve. The four ejidos [communal landholdings] that border it have agreed to use no motorized boats on the lake and to keep a 1kkm band around it free of settlement and farming.

To get to Laguna Miramar you must first get to a small village known as Ejido Emiliano Zapata. The lake is a 7km walk from the village. Once you get to the village ask around for a guide to take you to the lake. You can also rent a canoe and there is camping if you wish to stay the night. Bring your own provisions. There is a store but it may not have what you want.

You may want to avoid coming between June and October during the rainy season, when most of the year's 200mm of rain falls, and roads and paths turn to swamps.


CENTRAL

Grutas de San Cristobal

9km southeast of San Cristobal is a popular cave that is well worth the visit. The cave or Las Grutas are located just off of highway 109. You can take a taxi or clollectivo to get there.

Reserva Ecologic Huitepec

The entrance to the Huitepec Ecologica Reserve is about 3.5 km from San Cristobal on the road to San Juan Chamula.

A nice place to spend the day taking a nature walk is a trail that runs 2km up Cerro Huitepec. The walk at a steady pace can take an hour or so to the top to the cloud forest. This is a great place to see birds and there are many interesting insects.

The reserve is located about 3.5 km from San Cristobal on the road to San Juan Chamula.

Canon Del Sumidero

The Canon del Sumidero (Sumidero Canyon) is a magnificient natural formation in the earth a few kilometers east of Tuxtla Gutierrez. A river, the Rio Grijalva flows northward through it's winding trail.

The scenery is beautiful as you coast along the river in a jungle boat. There are crocadiles, a variety of bird life - herons, egrets, cormorants, vultures, kingfishers and of course iguanas basking in the sun. The trip is usually an hour in and an hour for the return.

You can catch a boat in a couple of places however in off season not all boat companies operate. The "lanchas" operating out of Chiapas de Corzo will always have a boat going out if you are willing to pay. To share costs in the off season you may have to wait for others to go on the journey to reduce the cost. You can also catch a boat east of the highway 109 bridge, a few hundred meters off the highway at the Cahuare embarcadero.

In 1981 the Chicoasen hydro-electric dam was built at the northern end of the canyon. It is about 35 km from Chiapa de Corzo to the dam but the boat will not go that far. There is now a gambling casino and hotel slated to be built along the rivers edge about an hours ride upstream of Chiapas de Corzo.

Lagos de Montebello

Southeast of the Guatemalam border lays a lush forest which is the home to 59 small lagunas of various colors. Thes lagunas or lakes make up the Lagos or Laguanas de Montebello. This area is beautiful, clean and not to frequented by touristas. At one edge of the lake district are the Mayan ruins of Chinkultic.

There are a number of lakes to choose from to explore.

Lagunas de Colores: The road straight in from the park entrance goes by the Lagunas de Colores, whose hues range from turquoise to deep green. The first lake on the right after about 2km, is Laguan Agua Tinta, while on the left side is Laguna Esmeralda and Laguna Encantada. Laguna Ensueno is on the right opposite Encantada. The biggest lake is Laguna Bosque Azul, on the left where the paved road ends.

Two paths continue from this point; go straight ahead for 800m to get to the gruta, a cave shrine. About 300m farther ahead and to the left is Paso de Solado, a picnic site beside a small river which is a nice place to relax.

Another tour to take is to go about 3km toward Tziscao along the road from the park entrance. A path leads 200m left to Laguna de Montebello which is a large lake with many spots to relax and swim.

Three kilometers farther along the Tziscao road look for another path which goes left to the " Cinco Lagunas." One kilometer farther along the Tziscao road from the Cinco Lagunas turnoff, a path leads 1km north to the deep blue Laguan Pojoj. This lake has an island in the middle.

One kilometer past Laguan Pojoj is Laguna Tziscao another medium sized lake. The junction for Tziscao village is a little farther.


SOUTH

Reserva de la Biosfera El Truinfo

The remote cloud forest high in the Sierra Madre de Chiapas is known as the El Triunfo Biosphere Reserve. It is not an easy place to get to and it is recommended that if you only speak English that you find a guide who can speak English before you attempt to access the park. There are a number of towns around the reserve however Jaltenango is closest. Its 130 km south of Tuxtla Gutierrez. There is also an official body that governs guided tours. For information contact:

Claudia Vigen, Ecoturisimo (eltriuunfo@infosel.net.mx)

El Soconusco

Up in the southern corner is Chiappas' hot, fertile coastal plain which extends 15 to 35 km wide. Its climate is hot and humid year-round. The Sierra Madra de Chiapas, rise up from the plain providing a pictures backdrop.

Reserva de la Biosfera La Encrucijada

This large biosphere reserve covers a 1448 sq-km strip of coastal lagoons, sandbars, wetlands, forest and giant mangroves. This vital area is the wintering and breeding ground for many migratory birds. There is also lots of wildlife and animal sightings are common.

The biosphere reserve has two official offices:

  • Avenida Central 4 in the small town of Acapetahua, 6km southwest of Escuintla
  • Boulevard Angel Albino Corzo 8856, Tuxtla Gutierrez.

Southeast from Embarcadero las Garzas, which is 16km southwest of Acapetahhua, is La Concepcion. This boat launch and tourista center has guides available and boat rides.

Barra de Zacapulco is closer to Embarcadero Las Garzas, a small village between the ocean and the lagoon. There is camping here and there is a sea turtle breeding center nearby.

The Howler Monkey is the loudest monkey and the loudest land animal. The only animal that is louder than the Howler Monkey is the Blue Whale. The Howler's call can be heard up to three miles (4.8 km) away.

The Howler is the largest New World monkey (monkeys from South, North, and Central America). These social primates live high in the trees (the canopy) of the rain forests of southern Brazil, northern Argentina, Paraguay, and Bolivia. Howlers have a life span of about 20 years.

These monkeys are in decline due to a loss of habitat.

Adult male Howlers are black to brown; females and the young are lighter in color. Howlers grow to be about 2 to 4 feet (0.6 to 1.2 m) tall and weigh from 8 to 22 pounds (3.5 to 10 kg). They have a long tail, a short snout, and wide-set, round nostrils. Adults females usually have one baby at a time.

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